August 23rd. The Semi-circle of Kerry

Murphy's Guest House knows how to pamper its guests. The included breakfast featured the most complete version of Irish breakfast complete with the usual sausages, egg, pork beans, and also black and white pudding, a.k.a my favorite blood sausage. Only it tastes a tiny bit better in Latvia. Georgia's and mine breakfast included enough smoked salmon to fit a medium fish each.

Much satisfied we drove out to Dunloe Gap - a picturesque gap between the mountains a dozen km away. At the site there was a large parking lot and horse park. There was also a sign suggesting that the road to the gap is of very poor quality appropriate only for pedestrian, horse traffic and local cars only. Horse drivers came to life offering their services. We asked them how far the gap was and were told it was 3 miles. This clearly was a local gimmick so we got on the way with our 8 feet.

The view was very scenic. And other than having to walk on the road that served also as a horse toilet really did not mind the walk. A few passing cars were kind of annoying and we wondered if we made a mistake by following the local "regulations." After a while we were passed by a horse-drawn carriage and asked how much more. He said 3 miles. We walked for another 15 minutes until the gap was visible within 300 meters.

Then it started to drizzle and we gave in and for 20€ got into an empty carriage driven by a friendly looking fellow. Kids loved the ride back. Our horse Jo-Jo was young and the driver had to walk along side for a portion of the way to urge it to go down the hill. On the way we saw some tourists who decided not to follow the guidance and drive up. They nearly ripped off their bumper trying to dodge our carriage. So in retrospect it was a good call on our part not to try it too. But locals are clearly not fixing the road to continue milking it. 

Irish Wolfhound (on the left)

Next we drove over to Muckross House, the centerpiece of any Kerry vacation. Check out its somewhat lame history on Wikipedia. Basically it was a small estate that spent 6 years preparing for and bankrupted itself for queen Victoria's 2-day visit. Ultimately Guinness bought them out like seemingly most things on the island.

What was interesting was that unlike other places the tour covered a lot of intimate details such as the night pots, kid's rooms, and servants quarters. Kids liked that. But it was presented with such an aplomb and the great vision of the owners who got the running water on the second floor in 1910 that Dan and I felt a bit sorry for them. In comparison Kylemore Abbey in Connemara had a hydro-electric plant that kept the 70 room estate and 20 glasshouses producing exotic plants through heated water tubes in late 18 hundreds.

We stopped by on the way at Toy Soldier factory. It was really neat to see all the different designs, shapes, colors. They also allow you to pick from several figurines to cast and color yourself. Except they picked the most boring ones possible.  

The next stop was Blarney castle. There is a well developed track through "fairy lands" complete with the druid circle, wishing steps and more. We enjoyed it equally with the kids.

The castle itself was very enjoyable too - there is a narrow staircase leading to the roof where one can kiss Blarney stone to get the gift of eloquence. You have to lay down on the ground and lower your head across the hole in the floor to kiss the stone on the outside wall.

Both Dan and I did it but I am not sure it is working already. Following that we explored the poison plan garden. I question the validity of the claims of tea and juniper being really deadly plants alongside with some others whose descriptions really me want to wash my hands more often when going through the forest. They have a well-maintained canabis plant growing there as well in a middle of a large metal cage. 

Kissing place upstairs

The last stop was supposed to be Cork. The guide listed it as the second largest city with tons of character. As we drove through it it did not seem so inviting. We stopped at trusty Jurys Inn to try to get in and were told that the city is fully booked for what ever reason. So we parked at Merchants Quay mall in the center and at the closest coffee shop with wi-fi confirmed with Booking.com that the city is indeed booked. So we reserved a room in the town of Cahir on a way to Cashel tomorrow and went out to walk around the city. It is much more pleasant to walk around knowing that you have a place to stay. In this regard booking.com is really helpful. We used it extensively in the last two weeks. 

Cork we saw was disappointing. We covered most of suggested walking areas in about an hour. It is really big and has some interesting streets but it does not seem to have the character or we did not give it enough time to uncover it. Dublin has Temple Bar at its heart, and then everything else. And Galway has its Latin quarter. Even tired Belfast has its spirit. And we could not find this kind of place for Cork. So we left without regrets. As we drove out we saw a cavalcade of cars including some gorgeous race cars enter the city. That may explain why the city is booked out. Maybe it has a soul after all or will acquire it for this weekend.

Ha ha

Cahir is the first really small town in Ireland we stayed at. We are staying at Cahir House hotel that used to be the place descendants of Cahir castle owners lived at before they too bankrupted themselves into the ownership by the most powerful to the point of monopoly beer company in Ireland. Since then it was turned into the hotel and even Jackie Kennedy reportedly stayed there. But she must have stayed in a different wing. Because ours, nice as it is, it 3 stars tops.

We went out for a walk in the evening. There was a concert in the square across the hotel. A small crowd locals gathered around and some kids were playing in the blocked off area in front of the stage. Georgia and Isabella went running around too and Isabella accidentally bumped into another girl, both girls falling down. We apologized and stayed around a bit more. But we really stuck out in the crowd.

The predominant outfit for people between 10 and 25 is Adidas track suit. Even though none of us are in that age frame there must still be some differences. And if anything after two weeks  on the road homelessness is somehow written all over us. So we decided not to wait for the possible punishment and continued our walk about a very pleasant town. Of course no city is complete without its Polish store. It is amazing.

Incidentally, I keep forgetting to write that in larger cities young girls have their eyebrows done dark and thick to rival Madonna in the 80s. We must be behind fashion because it is pervasive.

Eventually we made it back to our hotel and after the last final meal of baquettes and cream cheese had some Irish coffee (what a marvelous drink!!!) and more beer in the bar.