Day 8 – Vingis park

In the morning Dan went to the show on Taurus and then we went together to Vingis park. It is about 45 minute walk and we had stopped on the way twice.

The first stop was at the bakery on Gedomino near the parliament. The choice is definitely smaller but the three things we had (blue berry & chocolate bun & cheese danish) were great. If you add décor reminiscent of the old French cafes, the place essentially IS equal to PIENO BARAS. Then we had to stop to get something to drink.

The park is really big and it is nice that it is accessible from most of the newer residential neighborhoods. The wonderful fresh smell of the forest even beat the smell of the Zverinas dumpster we were passing. To get to the park we crossed the bridge over Neris. The river is really wide here. There are trails in the forest and wider paths with bicyclers and rollerbladers.

Georgia went around twice on an old merry-go-round – they would run one for 4LT even if there is just one person who wants to go on it. They had lots of them – the snake train, flying swans, and many more for only about 15 little park visitors who were there on that day. Then we tried a short stunt on a large Chucky-Cheeses-like attraction that had inflatable bounce room, the sea of plastic balls, and slides area. Most of the kids were hanging out here. Georgia fell into the plastic balls and promptly lost interest. To regain some trust as parents we got her ice-cream.

There were other things to do – there is bike rental of all sorts of bikes (at least 8 kinds), rollerblades, little cars, etc in the park but it was Georgia’s nap time so we headed to Alicia.

We walked back through Zverinas and looked at the changes in this highly desirable neighborhood. Some of the large homes were rebuilt into even larger palatial format but most still looked like the overgrown version of the village huts. The was also a street of hut stores looking like something freshly out of WWII times.

We strolled along the river walk. Near Europa mall, there is a very large grass field in front of the river walk. There is also a skateboarding park near it. We wondered how long this super prime real estate will stay undisturbed. Behind it and up on the hill, the area has been highly developed with the new skyscrapers and the mall. Bodies of sunbathing Vilniusians littered the field here and there.

We went to the mall to grab some cool air. It seemed to have gotten nicer or perhaps it was the air conditioning. We rode escalators up and down a few times and went to have a milkshake in one of the pods hanging off the main promenade. The pod was oscillating a bit.

Next we went through Kalvariu market and got strawberries. On the subject of fruit, we still have to find apples that taste like apples. The types seem to be like we have in US like Jonasgold, but the taste runs the gamut from beets to quinces. We buy, we try, and we throw out. Larger supermarkets sell berries but they are about $5 for half a pint that does not even smell. Oranges are marginal. The only thing that tasted great so far was bananas. So we got some strawberries at the market. They are small and look and smell very good. The taste is a little better than those in US. Alicia tells us that these are grown in greenhouses in Poland and once the season starts here, they would be much sweeter.

After Alicia we walked back home and got our car. Same one as yesterday. They dropped it off for free. More about the car in the next blog. We spent another hour on the playground in the youth park helping Georgia burn off extra calories from the late nap. Lots of daddies in attendance this time.

We finished the day at the Japanese restaurant Sinto on Pilies. They serve nice tasting food and the place is really pretty but as the Japanese restaurant they kind of suck. It was the most characterless Japanese ever. Not to worry – we counted at least 5 more to check out.

Day 6-7 – Internet and settling in

On Thursday owner’s son came with his friend and got wireless Internet working at the apartment. What a great day!!!

Seeing how great things turned out we decided to sign the lease for 3 months to stay here. We negotiated a 100LT drop in monthly rent, free water, new floor runners, and professional cleaning. Now we can start settling in.

Alicia came to baby sit Georgia. We left her to watch her favorite shows and went for an hour walk around the town. Everything looks different and even more after dark. The old town cafes with old brick/stone walls look very cozy.

Was too busy surfing to write in the blog.

On Friday the director of the cleaning company came. He scheduled us for next Friday since they are already booked all through next week. He engaged in a long discussion about professional aspects of the work they do – including the chemicals, approach, philosophy and strategic differentiators. I am sold – I only wish he came sooner.

In the evening we walked down to Alicia for dinner. Georgia waddled in water and tried to sit in with her clothing on. It is still pretty cold and the water is dirty. Barely dragged her out.

There is independence event going on on the Cathedral square – they have the stage and all the works and musicians. There are lots of people and the atmosphere is very festive. We checked out the burger place ($25 for 2 burgers with fries & coke) across the street - very nice.

Georgia is getting more comfortable about using the playground. They have up ramps made from little logs and wooden slides. She can now climb the ramp by herself. Will get some pictures of that next week. The wooden slides are horrific on the clothing.

Many of the women from the park also hang out on our playground. Spoke some more with the woman that I keep running into – Tanya from Germany and she invited us over for a dinner. Said that they live of the top floor with access to roof and amazing views. Will probably call her early next week.

Kindergarten director called again and asked to come on Tuesday next week because they are not finished.

Day 5 – Bubble fountain

Georgia and I woke up pretty late today and got out of the house at 11 to a coffee shop across the street. She had a second part of the breakfast, I had the first and read a little for her. Dan joined us close to noon and we walked over to the statue of Gedominas in the cathedral square to meet Dan’s old friend Felix and his family for lunch.


Felix married a Lithuanian girl Rasa and has two children. He learned some Lithuanian and speaks that and English with the kids. He is here for three weeks, Rasa will stay for the rest of the summer. She told us that about a recent visit to the Kaunas zoo where a baby camel was born just hours prior to their visit. We hope to go on Saturday or Sunday.

After 5pm we walked around the old town and across the town to the national library. Someone had added the bubbles solution to the fountain in the old town. It worked up a great amount of froth. Kids were running up to the fountain and grabbing large chunks of froth and throwing it at each other. Adults were smiling too. It is an overcast day and somewhat gloomy but it is amazing what some bubbles can do to lift up people’s mood. The fountain looks awesome with the mountain of froth.

We also went to the toy store of the way – all the same toys we have and then some. Got a bucket and some sand digging equipment.

We found a nice little bakery on the way, nearly half as good as pieno baras but definitely with more character. Will need to come back to try it out.

Dan asked the library employee about the hours and the Internet and was told that the hours are 9am-8pm and the Internet is available inside. Nice option to the coffee shop.

The area behind the library is developing and will likely be really great in a few years. There is a block of beautiful mostly renovated condos in a variety of styles (Gothic, Arabic). Will need to come back to take the pictures.

We’ve stopped at one of the Double Coffee for dinner. Dan had potato pancakes and grilled chicken. I had totally awesome solyanka (recipes for reference at home: fried bacon and onions mixed with tomato sauce, baby sausage, turkey, pickles, capers, and sour cream. Georgia had pasta with sauce of fried onions and bacon, cut sausage, heavy cream, and eggs. Her was the best dish of all. I’ve asked to pack the leftovers to watch the eating show tomorrow. They’ve not only put it in the doggy bag but also added plastic cutlery and napkins!

On the way back we watched couples dancing the swing at the little plaza near the main post office.

Day 4 – Some apartments and the health clinic

The day overall was very similar to yesterday. Additional items on the agenda were visiting some more apartments with the agent and taking Georgia to Northway clinic to get OK-TO-GO card for the kindergarten.

The day started out great – the coffee machine at the Coffee Inn is working! There are hoards of tourists in the city mostly senior citizens from Poland and Germany. I wonder if we look local to them.

We ran into a woman with a child we saw in the youth park yesterday and walked there together. She is Russian and came with her husband and two children from Germany in September for three years. Her two year old will be going to the same place as Georgia in the fall.
There were lots of kindergarten children on the playground today and so we ventured further and walked along the canal up to the first drunk. I want to get a cell phone.

In the afternoon we saw three apartments. None of them were as good as ours though they did have some pluses. The first one, owned by a businessman with a barely legal girlfriend, was spotless with the beautiful leather furniture and a huge flat screen TV. The second one had a dinner table. The owners of the third told us that they have disposed of all the problematic neighbors and we would get the entire apartment block to ourselves.

Then we went to the Northway clinic near Alicia to get the card for Georgia. It is a private office with tri-lingual staff. The office is very nice and the receptionists were very polite. There was even a little children’s area with Lego. There were minimal forms to fill out. Nothing seemed to have resembled the typical Soviet clinic except (initially) the doctor.

After receptionist directed us to the office we knocked on the door, opened it a bit and asked if we could come in. Another family was sitting next to the woman in white robes. The white woman said “Isn’t it obvious that I am busy, sit outside.” OK.

Then the family left and she came out to call us. I asked if I should bring the stroller. She said “Isn’t it obvious that the stroller should not be brought to the place where immunizations and made and blood drawn.” Aha, perhaps I should leave my shoes outside too? I did the best effort at mirror and match including the intonation and said “No, it is not obvious. I don’t go to this clinic a lot.” Her attitude changed dramatically.

She asked some general questions, explained what she will do to Georgia (look at the tongue, listen to the lungs and heart, take weight and height measurements), and even gave Georgia a toy to play with while she was writing out the card. The doctor was so nice now it was scary. I was waiting for her de-Sovietized veneer to crack at any point and the real face come back through but we were lucky. The whole thing lasted less than ten minutes and cost 25LT.

We now had the card that marks the transition into the new life for Georgia and us too. But Alicia told us that she got a call from the kindergarten telling her that they are installing new window and have closed the place down for a week. It is a good reprieve as we have more places around to explore together. Nice of them to call especially given that we have not even gone there yet.

Dan seems to have gotten all set with work – he slides around the living room sofas in his headphones and is almost constantly in the conversation. He works 8am-5pm with a lunch together in the middle and then when we come back from Alicia till 12 or 1.

Day 3 - Taking it easy in the city

In the morning Dan was working while Georgia and I went to Coffee Inn to grab a cappuccino and cheese cake. I was also supposed to test out the Internet connection but forgot my laptop while dragging a stroller downstairs.

The girl at the counter was in a great pain from a fresh tattoo that covered her back – a hummingbird and some flowers. There was some problem with the machine and she knocked it a few times. So in response I got an inch of coffee and five of froth. I told her that it is wrong – she protested that this is how it is always done and there is even a button on the machine responsible for the cappuccino. She offered a latte that has opposite coffee/milk ratio.

This sucks. I was really hoping to make this place my third home away from home given that PIENO BARAS IS CLOSED!! There are also multiple Double Espressos around the old town but this place is better and has the character. Plus they really offer coffee on the go as opposed to the Double Espressos.

Georgia had a sweet cheese bar on the way and half the cheese Danish so she was not interested in the cheese cake to my woe.

We came back to report our findings and went back out to the youth park fifteen minutes away.

First we went to the play ground in front of the tennis club. There were some very presentable looking 8-10 year old kids playing. The few people on the play ground seemed a bit less reserved but we were not able to have a conversation with any.

We walked to the second larger playground abound with children and adults in wide age ranges. Other than one woman who smiled they seemed pretty reserved. Poor Georgia – could not play with anyone. We’ve stayed there till noon and went back to get Dan and go to the nearby Espresso for lunch. The portions seem huge.

Owner’s son came in the afternoon to replace 4 bulbs that burned in 3 days. In general the noise outside has been reasonable and the place is not that bad. I am meeting with the agent tomorrow to see some apartments but should we end up staying here it is a livable option.

After 5pm we walked over to Alicia for dinner. On the way we got Georgia a singing potty since she was afraid to use the one at home after falling in with our Dora baby seat. Georgia seriously got her appetite back possibly due to success with the singing potty.

Georgia seems to have taken the leap in her development and is continually surprising us with the new things she says and does. Here are some cool new developments:

• She sings all the time and is able to reproduce several stanzas from multiple songs without errors.
• She remembers where we live and points to the right outside door.
• When asked where do you live she said the lines from the Russian children’s poem: мы живём на Занзибаре, в Калахари и Сахари. На горе Фернандо-по, где гуляет гипопо по широкой лимпопо. Basic and simple.
• There were some air balloons today and she correctly counted 3 – hurray we are past 2!
• She is continually playing make belief (possibly because we have so few toys here).
• She was able to blink with one eye only – was very proud and showing off.

Day 2 - Trakai

We loaded the car seat on the stroller and went to pick up Alicia and the car. Georgia liked sitting on top like the queen.

After a short ride we were there. We parked near the waterfront café at a pretty steep 3LT per hour. We walked around the castle and then took a dolphin boat and went around again.

Then we had some kibenai and Georgia had French fries and ketchup. There were three tied up boats on the lake with children on them singing songs in Lithuanian, Russian, and English. It really added to the wonderful atmosphere.

It was interesting to watch the people at the lake. There were lots of families with children. I expected to be the only short fat dwarf. It was hardly so. There was a good share of obese people here too, and those were not necessarily the visitors. In general we eat less than 1000 calories per day – food seems natural and very filling – we hardly ever feel hungry.

The people had grown bigger since our last visits – or perhaps we are looking at a different cross section now. Young people are still generally slim. It was funny to watch young girls in full flirt mode walking the trail on spikes.

Then we drove back home and Dan dropped off the car while we hanged out in the playground, grabbed some food in the supermarket next door and Dan and Georgia dropped off. I sent out some pictures and did research for Len’s visit and Michael’s dad.

Day 1. The Arrival

We decided to spend the summer in Vilnius, Lithuania. This would give us the taste of living in a different culture and prepare us for more extended trips. Dan was born here and I am from the former SU republic myself and so many things should still be familiar. We are looking forward to getting back in touch with many relatives and friends in this part of the world. Also, we are hoping it would be a good experience for Georgia who will be starting her first pre-K here. We plan to telecommute through the summer.

The trip here was pretty easy. We arrived on May 30, 2008 by Finnair. Even though the plane for the Transatlantic portion seemed pretty antique and did not have front row TVs, the service was great throughout and stewardesses were really attentive to Georgia. We were able to change the layover in Helsinki to take the earlier flight to Vilnius. During the 40 minute layover the airline also changed the seats so that we could be all together.

We got to our apartment at around 5pm. As we were on our way, Oleg, parent's friend, saw us from his car and waved and snapped a few pictures while standing in traffic. It is nice to have our visit documented from the beginning :) The day was really sunny, warm and pleasant.

Having seen some apartments in our last visit with the street entrance and beautiful lobby and stairs areas, we did not anticipate to be getting in through the little old backyard packed with cars, to the unlit and dirty entrance and stairs. The apartment itself is very nice and spacious and in the great part of the city but having seen the place only in pictures we did not expect that the furniture would be quite this old. It could also be cleaner (but we did get brand new blankets, pillows, and linens). Most importantly, the Internet was not working and it is a pretty crucial component for us to stay here. The owner met us and the agent joined shortly after. We decided to stay for 6 days to decide whether to stay here or to move.

We went out to Lokys (the Bear) for dinner. It is in a very nice location with outdoor seating. Only foreigners seemed to be here but there were other families with children. The dishes are interesting, especially the game and the old Lithuanian specialties like the Blue Nose (ravioli with blueberries). But it is way overpriced for the taste.

While waiting for our dishes to be served, Georgia and I walked around and realized that we can access our little multi-angled backyard from multiple streets around in just a few steps. That was a great discovery!

Georgia went to sleep as soon we opened the story book. But we had a hard time falling asleep since our windows faced the main street and at that time it appeared to the the center of city's night life. Finally the things quited down after 2am and we went to sleep till noon the next day.

The next day we walked back to Alicia. Grabbed some awesome cappuccino from Coffee Inn on the way. Walked along Neris riverbank. Georgia got to waddle around the water.

Pretty much relaxed through the day. Georgia got to hang out with a little Lithuanian girl in the backyard and we were happy to see them talk - she speaks Russian and the little girl did too. Took a long walk back. The city is beautiful and is continually renovating.

We rented a Mitsubishi Colt for 100LT to go to Trakai tomorrow. We get to keep it till Monday morning. A young couple dropped off a brand new looking car in Alicia's backyard and drove off in the motor bike.

At home, the Internet was working! We stayed up till 1am but the street was much quieter than yesterday. The biggest issue is the motor bikes. But that would be a nuisance everywhere. The old furniture is not so bad when you have a kid. We decided to keep looking on Monday but this place can definitely be lived in with some improvements.

Onto the new day!

May 2006. Madagaskar

Photos to come.

Magical time with the assistance of the best Madagaskar guide:

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