Saturday, August 1, 2009

Day 60 - The last day

I am finishing this already back at home. The last day was a whirlwind of activities.

Georgia and I got out to her favorite fountain, then spent an hour at the felt shop getting the rest of the supplies, then we went to the playground. Dan called to ask for some help with packing. We packed the third suitcase and then all went to Alicia to say goodbye. Then the three of us went to the Russian bookstore to get some remaining books for Elena. Unfortunately there were none from the list we got for Georgia. Dan ran out to get a new phone for Alicia because hers broke.

We got home, returned the car to Autobest - they gave us the money for the cab to the airport the next day. It was better than having 2 of their team members drive to the airport at 5am. Then we got outside to walk around for the last time in a few hours of peace.

At 7 Vitalik came with his family. They heeded our desperate message yesterday and decided to spend another evening with us. We tried to find a decent place for eat at that would have some area for the kids to play. We stopped at the restaurant next to the post office. It was OK but not thrilling because some rollerskater decided to make this the evening to practice his stunts so we had to watch the kids to make sure they don't get run over. Then some dance group came and did their routine of international dances right there in the square. It was pretty neat. Georgia got the fairy wings from Dina. She is very happy about them.

We went home to finish the evening and then Sasha Lazutka came followed with the apartment owner. So it was not a boring evening.

And in the morning we hopped on the plane to Kopenhagen. wonderful airport that has enough for keep you occupied for 5 hours during the layover to US. And now we are back at home.

The pictures from Mike did not tell the whole story - our backyard does look like Kansas. There is no more grass left - the entire backyard is covered by the fallen trees. Pretty sad. And our air conditioner is irrevocably broken. So the vacation is over :) But it is good to be back home :)

We already miss Alicia, Vitalik, Dina, Ilyusha and everyone else that made this summer even more fun and exciting than the last one. We hope to be back the next summer.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Day 59 - Penultimate day fishing and Trakai

We took a walk back to the my third home in the morning to show the hat. Georgia really liked it and wanted to wear it all the time, even though it warmed up to 35 today. She is so sweet. I will do a better job next time. The team in the felt store liked the hat in the daylight too.

Next we went to the playground and saw that one of the swings was swang above the support bar so it was no longer accessible. Georgia was pretty upset. I said that hooligans must have done it. Initially the playground was empty but then a 5 year old boy showed up with his mom. Georgia stood up accusingly in the sandbox, and said "Hooligan!" I explained that it would take a much bigger person to do this to a swing and anyway we don't know for sure if this little boy did it. Next it was two older boys, possibly 10 and 12. Georgia asked me if those were hooligans. I said I still don't know and we might never found out. But these two boys fixed the swing so they did not qualify as hooligans.

Later we walked around the streets next to the Lutheran church. No changes there. Visited the old keramic studio on St.Franscisco street, absolutely no changes, layout of the ceramic trinkets included. The bearded gnome who inhabits the place was busy creating somethig from clay. But maybe he melts it back again in the evening?

Then we had a dilemma about lunch. Orphan kibinai closed for the rest of the summer, on account of there not being enough orphans or music students that is and us not being reliable enough customers to consume the entire kibinai stock on an everyday basis. We tried to go to the new crepery that was next to Gustos but they either need to fix their bathroom (incidentally the first thing you see as you enter) or their ventilation, or both. Otherwise the place is very reminiscent of the public toilet next to the Gediminas hill. And it has only been in operation for like a week. We finally decided to get kibinai from Rimi and some stuff for the cold borsht.

After lunch we left Georgia with Dan's mom and went to the torture exhibition in the museum of the cinema and music on Vilnius g. Very nice exhibition, which begs the question why we went there in the first place. It is one thing to read about these things, and quite another to see all of there exciting implements invented by people to hurt and kill other people. I wonder if you show this to 100 adults, what percentage will find this fascinating and will think about practical applications in today's life.

At 4 we hooked up with Vitalik and his family to go fishing to a place near Trakai. It was a very nice looking place - several lakes with a set of covered tables and chairs next to them, a playground, and the main building. Dan and Vitalik took a couple of fishing rods and got to work. Don't know the right fishing terms to describe it but the fish was responding like mad. At first Dan and Vitalik could not keep up with it and and a lot of fish got off with a free lunch. But finally Dan figured it out and got like enormous fish. Instantly a guy who was running around between the fishers ran over to us. He got the fish off the hook and hit it on the head a few times with a metal rod to finish it off. I did not expect it and was worried about Georgia's reaction. But she did not seem to notice and was jumping around happy that we got a fish. Then Dina got one too. And it got the same treatment from a guy. Dina said when they were fishing at another place, they got the metal rod with the job of the guy too. Somehow I did not think about this element of hunting. Incidentally if you catch the fish here and left it go the fine costs much more than if you just went along with it and ate it.

Dan and Vitalik took the fishes to the restaurant to pick out the way they would be prepared. We hanged out on the plaground, and ate our fishes with fries, salad, and beer and coke. We also tried our luck at the family seasaw. Georgia was not helping and we lost. It was wonderful and relaxing there. Nothing at all like the torture exhibition.

We decided to finish the day at Trakai. Got some ice-cream as we started to walk around the castle. There were 4 hot air baloons in the air and some of them were pulling incredible stunts. Like almost landing on the water and landing in courtyard of Trakai castle and then going back up. The sounds of the fire flares made it feel like those were giant airborne creatures around us, breathing. Maybe I spend too much time talking with Georgia about the dragons. The kids found a quiet spot near the lake and decided to go swimming. It is very convenient to do this when you are three or two. Not sure if putting a picture of your toddler swimming in the lake butt naked breaks any laws so will have to skip on that. The kids get along very nice and enjoy each other's company.

It was very sad to say goodbye. Don't know if we will have a chance to see Vitalik and his family again tomorrow. I know they may read this, but (sniff, sniff), they are primarily responsible for this being an absolutely amazing summer. From visiting each other and walking around the city, to hanging out in Palanga, to dacha, fishing, and more. I have to finish because my keyboard can only absorb so much moisture.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Days 57-58 - Dacha and the new hat for Georgia

I got lazy again yesterday and there wasn't anything really dramatic to write about.

On Sunday morning we went to the Russian book store to fill up on the remaining books for Georgia. They have a much better selection of the learning materials than in US but the items are really expensive. Natasha gave a few books to Georgia too and they are even better than what they had in the store. I wonder if Russia is blocking the sale of some books outside the country.

After that we headed to Olshevsky dacha. It is a great place to be. The hosts are wonderful and there are so many things to keep you busy: we picked currants and sour cherries, Georgia took dips in the pool, I played with Bush who has grown enormously, Dan chatted with d. Vitya, we also took a look at the collection of monsters in the back.

About Bush, the English bulldog, of the kind that can only be born through a c-section. He is about 1.5 years and probably weighs over 50lb, has enormous head with the lower jaw sticking out. He looks like a stout footstool and sounds a bit like a pig. Not exactly a cuddly puppy but it thinks it is one. Bush tried to lick anyone it finds itself next to and climb in their lap too. Gave a real fright to Georgia. It was sad because if he was a poodle puppy and did not look like a panting piggy he would be less intimitating. But I understand Georgia's feelings about playing with Bush. It is not fun when someone almost twice your weight tries to sit in your lap.

Later Vitalik and his family came, as well as Diana and Jonas. We had a really good time and were really sorry to go.

On Monday, Georgia and I tried to get out in the morning 3 times. First it was a sweater, then 2 bathroom breaks. Eventually we gave up and got Dan and all went over to the Gates of Dawn for a walking kibinai lunch. Spotted a new crepery, right next door to Gusto crepery. I wonder why they decide to open right next to the more established one. But they already had some people inside so maybe it was a good calculated business move.

Then I made saltibarsciai, attempt number X. I was able to move from the standstill point by frying potatoes that are served on the side, by using beets marinated in the apple vinegar, and kefir with dill already built in. Dan claims it is pretty good. I can't tell the difference with my one tastebud. But, at last, we can go home in peace now :)

At 6pm I went back to the felt shop to make a hat for Georgia. This time it was all me by myself. It was very intimidating and I spent two hours preparing and laying everything out but it kind out worked out in the end, if you discount a large hole where one of the earflaps is supposed to be. I feel empowered to do this at home now. Georgia was asleep when I got home so I still have to pass the final test tomorrow.

The felt shop is located in a really good place - right in front of Lokys restaurant. So the tourists, when they finish their meal usually look in the window and then come in to check out. Russian tourists seem the most open with their wallets. They run around and try everything and torture the poor store clerk to death but in the end buy something.

Misha sent some pictures of our backyard after the thunderstorm. Looks a bit like Kansas. Still we are ready to check it out firsthand :)

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Friday, July 24, 2009

Day 55 - Getting ready to go home

Nothing interesting to report today. We are getting ready to go home next week and had started to prepare.

Day 54 - Relaxing day in the city

Today started with a nasty rain. But what can you do. With the right gear, simply continue. Georgia and I got out for a walk. We made a customary story at Danija shoe store. I am kind of indifferent to the selection though I keep looking at the crocs. Georgia usually picks out a few pairs of the ladies shoes and tries them on. Next was the stop at the bookstore where I confirmed once again that there are very few books of Max Frei in Lithuania. Maybe that's why the author had found home here in Vilnius. After that the final stop before lunch was Zaislu (I am sure I am misspelling the word "childhood") planeta. We wanted to get something for Iluisha. After trying to ellicit some suggestions from the unusually unhelpful salesgirl, we headed back to the racks and Georgia picked out a nice-made believe set for the boys.

We met for lunch with Dan at Tiko's, just opened crepery in front of Vocieciu fountain - facing the Old City Kebab/Bistro which still exists in the transitory state. They have a cheery decor like in the kindergarten complete with the multicolored plastic chairs. They don't have anything to drink other than their line of 4 fountains selling watered down drinks. We got one with the trace of lemonade in water. They also have to get their operations straight. 4 people operating crepe friers and it still takes over 10 minutes to get your food. The crepes themeselves were interesting - extremely thick to the point of gelatinous. It was a bit like eating a chinese rice cake. We could not decide whether it was pleasant or not, but having placed the hefty blobs on the bottoms of our stomachs we headed back home for Georgia's nap.

I escaped and went to my third home away from home - the felt shop. Had a lively discussion with a sales lady. Apparently Larisa does not own the place, Regina the designer does. Larisa used to work in a physics research lab before the science all but collapsed here. Then she went to work on the projects financing and projections for the office of Labor in the Parliament. There she worked herself into a stroke. Among other things she lost her ability to read. In 6 months she did learn to read again but did not want the stress of her old job. So she used her skills to help Regina turn her half-dead business in Vilnius into a much more successful venture. Still she does not want to be a partner because she is trying to enjoy her life the way it is.

We talked a bit on the subject of Jews here. Based on her background she was surrounded by them in her prior jobs. She feels a major part of her got cut off when most of them took off. She is very emotional about this. She promised to hook me up with an author of another ghetto memoir, which won lots of awards. That person lives in the house on Subacius where Jews used to hide (ultimately unsuccessfully) during the war. She was haunted by the visions of how it must have looked until she started doing her research and ultimately wrote the book.

The music scene was a bit off today. There was a musical group of young kids playing elevator jazz in front Paris cafe on Didzioji. And there were two guys under the influence of something playing something unidentifiable on the guitar on Pilies. Where is the smell of teen spirit and the beautiful accordeon lady? However we did see two guys from Spain, dressed in the folk costumes. They are making their way across Europe performing Valencia music just like last summer. I wanted to take a picture with them but they were different ones and it would not relay the right kind of de ja vu.

You know it is a vacation when this is the first thing you eat after the nap:

In the evening it got warm and sunny. We went for a walk with Vitalik and his family. We tried the Cathedral square but there was too much life threatening activity with bicyclers, skateboarders and frisbee throwers trying to play in one place. So we went to the youth park. After initial hesitation Vitalik and Dina allowed Ilyusha to play in a puddle. It is one of the best childhood experiences a sober adult, like me, could just salivate over. He really enjoyed it and jumped all over it. We made a few videos.

After that we tried to finish the evening in a graceful ambience of the "Kiss" as rendered by Max Raabe in my favorite restaurant Graf Zeppelin. But both of the kids had rebelled so we had to take it back to our home, where we quickly ate the desert and split. Georgia got beautiful bunny shoes from Dina at the Cathedral square. She tried them again on in front of the mirror before her bath and was very pleased.

Day 54 - Relaxing day in the city

Today started with a nasty rain. But what can you do. With the right gear, simply continue. Georgia and I got out for a walk. We made a customary story at Danija shoe store. I am kind of indifferent to the selection though I keep looking at the crocs. Georgia usually picks out a few pairs of the ladies shoes and tries them on. Next was the stop at the bookstore where I confirmed once again that there are very few books of Max Frei in Lithuania. Maybe that's why the author had found home here in Vilnius. After that the final stop before lunch was Zaislu (I am sure I am misspelling the word "childhood") planeta. We wanted to get something for Iluisha. After trying to ellicit some suggestions from the unusually unhelpful salesgirl, we headed back to the racks and Georgia picked out a nice-made believe set for the boys.

We met for lunch with Dan at Tiko's, just opened crepery in front of Vocieciu fountain - facing the Old City Kebab/Bistro which still exists in the transitory state. They have a cheery decor like in the kindergarten complete with the multicolored plastic chairs. They don't have anything to drink other than their line of 4 fountains selling watered down drinks. We got one with the trace of lemonade in water. They also have to get their operations straight. 4 people operating crepe friers and it still takes over 10 minutes to get your food. The crepes themeselves were interesting - extremely thick to the point of gelatinous. It was a bit like eating a chinese rice cake. We could not decide whether it was pleasant or not, but having placed the hefty blobs on the bottoms of our stomachs we headed back home for Georgia's nap.

I escaped and went to my third home away from home - the felt shop. Had a lively discussion with a sales lady. Apparently Larisa does not own the place, Regina the designer does. Larisa used to work in a physics research lab before the science all but collapsed here. Then she went to work on the projects financing and projections for the office of Labor in the Parliament. There she worked herself into a stroke. Among other things she lost her ability to read. In 6 months she did learn to read again but did not want the stress of her old job. So she used her skills to help Regina turn her half-dead business in Vilnius into a much more successful venture. Still she does not want to be a partner because she is trying to enjoy her life the way it is.

We talked a bit on the subject of Jews here. Based on her background she was surrounded by them in her prior jobs. She feels a major part of her got cut off when most of them took off. She is very emotional about this. She promised to hook me up with an author of another ghetto memoir, which won lots of awards. That person lives in the house on Subacius where Jews used to hide (ultimately unsuccessfully) during the war. She was haunted by the visions of how it must have looked until she started doing her research and ultimately wrote the book.

The music scene was a bit off today. There was a musical group of young kids playing elevator jazz in front Paris cafe on Didzioji. And there were two guys under the influence of something playing something unidentifiable on the guitar on Pilies. Where is the smell of teen spirit and the beautiful accordeon lady? However we did see two guys from Spain, dressed in the folk costumes. They are making their way across Europe performing Valencia music just like last summer. I wanted to take a picture with them but they were different ones and it would not relay the right kind of de ja vu.

You know it is a vacation when this is the first thing you eat after the nap:

In the evening it got warm and sunny. We went for a walk with Vitalik and his family. We tried the Cathedral square but there was too much life threatening activity with bicyclers, skateboarders and frisbee throwers trying to play in one place. So we went to the youth park. After initial hesitation Vitalik and Dina allowed Ilyusha to play in a puddle. It is one of the best childhood experiences a sober adult, like me, could just salivate over. He really enjoyed it and jumped all over it. We made a few videos.

After that we tried to finish the evening in a graceful ambience of the "Kiss" as rendered by Max Raabe in my favorite restaurant Graf Zeppelin. But both of the kids had rebelled so we had to take it back to our home, where we quickly ate the desert and split. Georgia got beautiful bunny shoes from Dina at the Cathedral square. She tried them again on in front of the mirror before her bath and was very pleased.

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Day 53 - Picnic in Kernave

In the morning we had an agent come over with a prospective apartment renter. The apartment owner was supposed to join them in the walkthrough but she was late as usual. We considered doing a scene from the Monster (the Italian version) but decided to be civil. I asked that the agent and her client wait for Nona in the kitchen while we were watching cartoons in the living room. After staying in the kitchen for 1 second, they headed out on a tour around the apartment without our permission. It was rude since it is still our apartment. Should have done the scene from the Monster. Nona and Gintaras came when they were already leaving.

Gintaras asked us if our visit to Poland last week was to attend the festival of the Jewish song in Krakow. They really figured us out. I said no, the roads are so bad that we could only get as far as Warsaw, and that in 8 hours. He went into the speech on how great the Lithuanian roads are.

Georgia and I decided to visit Meno gallery on Vilnius gatve 39. I was looking at the logo - the cute face with a tongue sticking out and for some reason thought it was a gallery that contained art made by the children. It wasn't so. The current exhibition was located in a few rooms. The mood that the pictures convey was depressing, dark, and remotely pedophiliac. We both decided that it sucks and got out.

On Wednesdays, there is a book fair in the same building so we visited that too. It featured a bunch of sellers selling mostly Lithuanian books within the same price range when they are sold in the stores. There were a few old books in Russian but nothing in a good enough condition to ask about the price.

The next point of the day was the Lithuanian Art Museum at Radvilu rumai on Vilniaus g. 22. They had 3 beautiful pagan crosses outside. Inside was a very nice exhibition of the Lithuanian folk art, including the clothing from the different regions, some handicrafts, furniture, and such. And many more crosses and for some reason a good collection of St. Georges killing various dragons. Georgia really enjoyed it. I don't know where it was the subject matter, which as a bit more concrete and less abstract than the other places she had been too. And maybe she is getting used to being dragged to museums. She asked lots of questions and maintained interest throughout the entire visit.

After that we picked up some food for lunch at the Wok and headed home to have lunch together with Dan.
A new page in the story of the souvenir sellers on the upper Pilies who lost their booths:

Later in the afternoon we drove to Kernave forest, the same place we did the photo shoot, for some shashlyk. It was a big crowd: us, Andrew, Natasha, Dustin, Alicia, and, Nina and Kolya, Alicia's cousin and his wife. Georgia, Kolya and I went to pick blueberries and raspberries while the rest were setting the table and warming up the coals. Incidentally while Georgia and I got like 10 berries after 30 minutes of picking, Nina and Kolya got the entire basket and a bucket after the same time period.

We had a really good time and somehow 6 hours went by incredibly fast. We picked berries, went to the river and walked around the forest. There was a swing for everyone and a slide for Georgia. In the end, Dan and I went to Kernave and got some ice-cream for everyone to have with their blueberries, which were on the sour side. It was awesome. Georgia had the most energy left at the end.

In the evening Andrew, Natasha, and Dustin came over and we spent a few more hours hanging out in the kitchen. They were talking about possibly moving closer since they go through the drive from Ekaterinburg every summer anyway and would like to explore Europe some more.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Day 52 - New food outlet at last

In the morning we planned to go to the children's art gallery with Georgia on Vilnius g. 39. But on the way I stopped at the felt shop to show Larisa my hat. Spent an hour there as she continued opening up my eyes. She was really good with Georgia and offered to her a free reign of the shop. Georgia was free to do entirely as she pleases. How many store owners would do such a thing. I got some wool to make a few more hats and a scarf. It is all in the labor since the wool costs less than 5% of the cost of the finished product.

Next we walked a bit longer among the stores in that area and finished on the playground there. Then Dan met up with us and we went to the restaurant we found a while earlier - it is called the Moon Valley and is located next to the Coffee Inn on Didžioji gatve. The waiters are really nice and the guy spoke really good Russian. The food was really good but we waited for a long time for it and it was the most expensive lunch in this country. It does not look like such an expensive place. So I would recommend it with the reservations.

After Georgia's nap we did letters and I was shocked to see her read a few words by herself. This was equialent to her taking her first steps. So cool.

Then Vitalik and his family came. Vitalik and Dan went out to get pizza. Vitalik brought a menu from Cili Pica for our growing collection. We will now be able to boldly go the same place Lithuanian had been going all this time. They also brought Lithuanian version of the caramels called "korovka." Not to say that our trip to Riga was in vain, but next time we will get this candy locally. They also brought marzipan candy surrounded by a shell of dates. The murderers.

It is enjoable to watch the kids grow over such short time period. They had been kind of upset about Ilyusha who does not speak still even though he turned 2 recently. Dina asked him to say a a couple of different words today and he did, perfectly, like he was practicing saying them for months. Georgia impressed us too, again today. Prior times she started crying whenever Ilyusha tried to take her doll stroller with Marty or her own stroller. But today she did not mind so much the former, and actually herself offered the latter with a bow. But after Vitalik left she asked if they would come again because she is not sure she would be able to take it anymore to see her Marty being taken away :) But it was a step forward today.