
On Saturday we carried still sleeping kids at 4am downstairs and started out for the weekend trip to Warsaw. The ride to Stansted airport via M25 at that time was miraculously traffic free. It looks like construction workers had closed off huge sections of the highway but the actual work is being performed on small segments here and there.

Ryanair operates similarly to Wizz: people are herded into large lines and are made wait for 30-45 minutes and then everyone is loaded on buses and then everyone runs to grab a better seat - seats are not assigned. Only one piece of hand luggage weighing up to 10kg is allowed. Checking in luggage adds extra $120 per bag. Everything is about efficiency. There are no pockets on the seats so that people would not put trash into them.
Ryanair also has a cute gimmick, when the plane lands they sound a kind of fanfare and announce that they had yet another "on-time flight." The cute part is that they don't count when they actually arrive but rather the time in the air. So if your departure is delayed and you arrive late, as far they are concerned, they still got to there in 2 hours.
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Dan mentioned that good
programmers are not only found in
the offices
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Taxi dropped Dan off to attend to his affairs while kids and I stayed on to go to the zoo. Here is the link of us going there in
2009 when Georgia was three. It is a very nice zoo. Not as enormous as the Bronx Zoo but with a very nice selection of animals, most held in decent enclosures. There are also plenty of areas to take a break for kids to relax and grab a bite.

We all had a great time running from one enclosure to another. There was a funny moment The king of the jungle sat on the hill rather impassively and then suddenly sprang up to life and roared a few words over to hippos swimming in their pool nearby. And they had responded!!
After that we sat down in a coffee shop and Dan joined us and we finished our tour together. Back in the old town, most of the old town square and other surrounding areas are closed off for repairs. Mermaid is not accessible anymore.

There was a general strike and huge crowds of people were walking down Krakowskie Przedmieście, the main street along the historical center. Most were wearing overshirts that said "Solidarnost'."

We saw some from workers Poland, Lithuania, and Belarus. In whole we could not make out what it was about but it was extremely loud. And at one point when they exploded a few home-made noise rockets right next to where we were walking so it not that safe either. It did not wake up Isabella though. She fell asleep peacefully on Dan's shoulder. We sought refuge with the Internet and found one at the Little Bistro along the way. From there we watched the much muted demonstration while enjoying our beers and fried cheese.

At night we walked to our MDM hotel and on the way discovered a beautiful pedestrian street on the way that was filled with the coffee shops and people. Maybe it was there before and we missed it because it was not in such a good condition. But now it was lovely. And we even spotted the king of ice-cream Dan was searching for for years since trying Soprano ice-cream for the first time in Dansk. It was closed already though. We passed the Palace of Culture, the ugly Soviet landmark that is a sore sight to many Poles. But at night, it was lit up as some kind of Vegas palace and actually looked very nice.

MGM is a bit far off but for a large and comfortable family room with included breakfast at 60 pounds per night it was a pretty good deal. In the morning we enjoyed downtown views while feasting on the breakfast that seemed to try to cater to specific breakfast customs all across Europe.

Saska Kepa neighborhood was highly recommended in the guides as a kind of a new "Greenwich village." It resembles a mix between Antakalnis and Zhverinas: quiet, a bit up-market bourgeois area with some new diverse restaurants giving it a bit of color.


A great highlight at the Skaryszewsky park next door were flame-red squirrels. I have never seen them in this color. We took many pictures but the little creatures are so fast that pictures really don't do them any justice.

Forgot to mention, on the way to non-Greenwich village we passed Fat Katy, a cool city landmark and functional installation.
Check it out.

We had some very excellent Soprano ice-cream. The search is over. Note to travelers, do not go for the cheap imitations that look like Soprano ice-cream.
Georgia and I stopped by to look inside one of the gallery shops while Dan and Isabella waited outside. Isabella walked away from Dan a few steps to take a look at flowers. There was a guy walking toward her. He looked around and did not see Dan and attempted to pet Isabella. It may have been a perfectly friendly gesture other than that furtive look around. Dan shouted "Hey" and the sick jerk speeded away. People, keep an eye on your kids! We may have had before but now we don't live in the world where it is OK to pet strange children on the street. Those who pretend to not know this rule and try anyway, are sick jerks.


Back in the old town, all sorts of events were going on at the same time: a band of bikers who had just completed their tour to Katyn, people who had chained themselves to doghouses to protest the same practice done to dogs, first aid services fund raiser. A bit overwhelmed we escaped again to a little pierogi shop on Bednarska.
Surek, pierogi with meat, cabbage, meat and cabbage, meat, cabbage and mushrooms, and other combinations, and everything else were great! That, in contrast to the Zapiecek, the McD of pierogi, where we had the misfortune of eating (and sharing the single bathroom with 1/2 mln protesters) yesterday. Zapiecek callously ruins the splendorous national food. The Zapiecek chain is like a plague - almost every city block has one.

We thought of going to visit some Holocaust cites but did not want to upset kids. They are too little to understand this but they would definitely see the effect those places will have on us. During the demonstrations yesterday, looking at the faces of people passing by I was thinking that we really have not progressed as a human race for hundreds of years. It still takes relatively few triggers to get us wound up to revert to .. past the animal state. Past, because animals as a group do not typically engage child killings, ethnic cleansings and more. Those who retain their humanity when in distress are still an exception.
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Georgia said that adult playgrounds
are those that don't have anything
but the view
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Returning back home was the same in reverse - herded back on the plane, long drive home, and carry sleeping kids up to bed. They were awesome the entire time. We should do it again!!