We did a fun drive from Luxemburg Northeast to Burg Eltz through Trier and then took the classical South the Rhine river stopping at Boppard, St. Goar, Bacharach, Rudesheim, Maintz, and ultimately ending in Frankfurt.
Burg Eltz, locked in on a ledge between two green towers with its whimsical turrets, a multitude of towers, and half timbered living quarters, was a beautiful sight indeed. We initially thought of sending just the kids to roam through the castle while we would enjoy awesome views at a castle cafe while having a cup of coffee and cake. But kids encountered crowds of mostly Russian tours and decided to bail on the opportunity of some autonomy and opted-in to join us for the cake.
We spent some time at Boppard trying to get our bearing. It’s filled with the crowds of German pensioners and features a lot of “antique” stores that really sell a bunch of old junk unattractively piled up in the windows. Every now and then there is a little pearl like the Roman ruin or an awesome cafe that sells dark German bread, or a section of a cute river promenade. We did not get the point and so started back toward the parking lot but then Isabella needed to go to the bathroom so we came back into town and settled at a pretty classical cafe filled with old upholstered furniture.
Ordered some iced coffees and a little desert from a tall lean older German lady with a mass of blond curls while we waited. The store has pictures of an even older German guy... one of the pictures was framed with a black ribbon in the corner. That picture looked like pictures of grandpa when he was sick. Pensioners sat silently in their seats as if waiting for something. We sent the kids out to get ice-cream on their own. When we were leaving, I’ve asked the owner if the gentleman in pictures was her father. She nodded and said that he died a week and a half ago. That explained some of the drama and suspense in the air. As if those pensioners were still waiting for him to come out and serve them coffee as usual. Are they helping her grieve or the opposite? In any way she stepped out with some prosecco on her serving tray moving remarkably light and graceful. And we too got on our way.
The views of scenic homes lining the banks of Rhine and backed by the hills and featuring neat vineyards and a multitude of castles had started in earnest. We’ve stopped to walk around the ruins of tax fortress Burg Rgeinfels. Kids has a great time. The real perk was the opportunity to take the guided tour of the dungeon and tunnels under the fortress but that plan was crashed when the first droplets of rain started to hit the building and the guide/ticket guy gleefully said ‘nein’ to starting the tour.
The rain had started and we’ve missed our ferry to Lorelei. We decided to keep going and stopped at Bacharach next. Thanks to the rain, that was already receding, the streets were empty and we had this younger brother to Rothenburg all to ourselves. We wondered around and climbed one of the towers to enjoy the views of the town and vineries below.
Next we grabbed a ferry to the Eastern bank and ran through the cobbled streets of Rudesheim to make it to the cable cars that took us to the Nieserwald Monument passing more vineyards and lovely Rhine views below.
Back in town we went through delectable Drosselgasse (as a group we decided that it was cute rather than kitsch - a philosophical debate that challenges a number of travelers). We settled down for the unremarkable but plentiful meal, ad many around here and accompanied it with Riesling as befit the place.
Finally, we’ve made a brief stop at Maintz, lamenting that it was so late and we simply have no energy to give this beautiful town its due, and kept going to Frankfurt to spend the night prior to the final trip of our journey - Berlin.