July 30, Reflections on Mongolia: Beyond the Steppes, Misconceptions, and Unforgettable Memories

Now that we are settled back in Vilnius, we’ve finally had the space to sit down and process our month in Mongolia. Looking back, this was easily one of the most remarkable, raw, and memorable travel experiences we’ve ever had. In fact, the only thing that quite compares to it is our trip to Madagascar some 21 years ago, a journey that has stayed vividly in our minds ever since. Mongolia, without a doubt, has earned that exact same space in our hearts. 

A quick disclaimer: There was a lot to digest, remember, and process from this trip. I leveraged Gemini as my digital assistant to take my raw thoughts and immediate ideas and wrap them into a more readable, logical format. All ideas, opinions, and experiences are strictly mine, though - read at your own risk! 😊

1. The Persistent Misconception of "Backwardness"

If there is one thing that continuously frustrated us before we left, while we were there, and even now after returning home, it’s the constant, misguided comments from people assuming Mongolia is a "backward" or primitive country.

It is maddening how deeply rooted this stereotype is, and we had to field these ignorant questions over and over again.

Yes, some things could be more high-tech, out in the countryside next to summer gers or along wilderness hiking trails, you’ll use outhouses. But outhouses are a practical, sustainable adaptation for seasonal nomadic life and extreme high-altitude geography. You find the exact same setup in mountain huts, national parks, and rural outposts across the US, Europe, and other "industrialized" nations, yet nobody looks at a backcountry toilet in the Alps or the Rockies and labels the entire nation backward!

What makes this label even more absurd is that the infrastructure where it counts often puts Western connectivity to shame. The mobile data and cellular coverage we had out in remote mountain passes and high-altitude steppes was noticeably faster and more reliable than what we get right in our hometown in New Hampshire. For some additional perspective on Infrastructure, judging Mongolia by Western infrastructure metrics is fundamentally flawed. When a country is three times the size of France with 1/20 the population of France (for comparative purposes) and half that population lives in the capital, and the rest practice seasonal nomadic herding, running hundreds of miles of fixed electrical grids or water pipes isn't 'progress'—it's impractical for a moving target. Instead, Mongolia solved this with decentralized innovation: portable, low-profile solar systems power 70%+ gers across the steppes, letting herders run satellite TV, charge phones, and keep lighting, all while preserving their way of life. That’s smart adaptation, not backwardness.

A massive part of this perception stems from 20th-century geopolitical propaganda. During the Soviet era, Moscow deliberately promoted a patronizing "our younger brothers" narrative toward satellite states and nomadic cultures to justify their own civilizing mission. Decades later, the rest of the world is still buying into that old script, completely ignoring a vibrant nation that balances ancient traditions with modern technology in ways most Westerners can't even fathom.

2. People & The Magic of True Connection

Beyond the landscapes, it was the people who made this journey what it was. We genuinely believe that Mongolian hospitality isn't a show for tourists; it’s a deep-seated way of life. Whether it was locals in Ulaanbaatar helping us navigate local prices at the laundromat or host families inviting us into their gers for tea, the warmth was everywhere.

Above all, our experience in the far west was defined by the incredible people we traveled with. Our guide Khoz (with her boundless energy, sunny personality, and endless local connections) and Mo (with occasional moodiness but with genuine love for the wildlife and Mongolian culture) made our adventure completely unforgettable. 

3. Top 3 Highlight Destinations

If we have to narrow down a month of wild terrain to three absolute peaks:

1. Altai Tavan Bogd & Potanin Glacier: Trekking 16 km up to base camp under 4,000-meter peaks, sleeping surrounded by glacial rivers and high-altitude winds.

2. Gandan Monastery (Ulaanbaatar): Listening to morning chants and standing before the 26-meter Avalokiteshvara statue—a moving symbol of the resilient revival of Mongolian Buddhism after decades of Soviet suppression.

3. Khoton & Khurgan Lakes: Camping along high-altitude glacial waters framed by pine forests, ancient petroglyphs, and summer pastures.

4. 
   And keeping it to 3 totally does not give it justice... the Khuvsgul Lake, the Deer Stones, the Singing Dune, the Flaming Cliffs, Erdene Zuu Monastery... the list goes on.

4. Cultural Discoveries & Biological Adaptations

We got to immerse ourselves in cultural traditions and natural phenomena that blew us away:

• The Golden Eagle Hunters (Berkutchi): Visiting eagle hunter families in Sagsai, meeting female huntresses like Aymoldir, and seeing mounted equestrian games up close.

• Naadam & Mongolian Wrestling (Bōkh): Mongolian wrestling instantly became our favorite sport to watch—from the community-level events, all the way to Naadam games at the capital, the tactics, the ritualized eagle dance (Devve), and the respect between competitors were amazing.

• 
  The Dairy Culture & Aaruul: I developed a genuine addiction to aaruul (sun-dried, sour cheese curds—essentially Mongolian crack!). I have a few bags left... rationing, waiting for the inevitable moment it runs out.

• The Lactose Adaptation Puzzle: It was fascinating to learn how Mongolians manage to consume insane amounts of dairy. Unlike Europeans, Mongolians don't have the genetic mutation that keeps the lactase enzyme active into adulthood. And unlike their Chinese, Japanese, & Korean neighbors, who largely have to avoid dairy or stick to lactose-free milk, Mongolians have thrived on dairy for thousands of years.

  
  Their secret is entirely cultural: they milk everything (cows, yaks, horses, camels, goats, and sheep) and then immediately ferment, boil, or dry it into cheese, curds, and spirit drinks. Over thousands of years, this traditional processing built up a powerful, specialized gut microbiome that breaks down lactose for them. It’s an incredible example of human culture and gut flora solving a genetic puzzle!

5. A Nation Carving Its Own Future

Mongolia is moving fast. Holding vast reserves of copper, gold, oil, and strategic minerals, and situated right between major global powers, the country is rapidly positioning itself for a major economic leadership role on the world stage. They are working hard to balance rapid modernization, resource wealth, and democratic identity with their deep nomadic roots, and we genuinely hope they succeed.

Moments We’ll Be Talking About for the Next 20 Years

• A 500-Guest Kazakh Wedding: Taking vodka shots with legendary eagle hunters, hearing traditional toasts, and dancing late into the night.

• Overland Expeditions: Bouncing across roadless mountain passes in a Lexus 450, followed by Buhanka, burning dried yak dung to keep bugs away, and playing late-night games of Durak in the kitchen tent.

• Capital City Contrasts: Exploring Ulaanbaatar, the coldest capital on Earth (1,350m elevation), where Soviet-era architecture, Buddhist temples, modern food trucks, and 24/7 convenience stores collide.

Just like our trip to Madagascar all those years ago, Mongolia challenged our perspectives, pushed us out of our comfort zones, and gave us memories that will stay with us forever.