Day 1 – Arriving to Antwerp

We should have suspected something. It started too well.

Our plane neighbors and us prepared for the worst but the kids were great on the flight to Brussels. Georgia watched the dragon in training and fell asleep pretty much until the end. Isabella also had two long sleep stretches and no crying. We watched Dr. House for 1.5 hours and then CSI for about the same. And pretty much did not know what to do with ourselves the rest of the time. Towards the end even the grim-faced French-speaking people around us broke into occasional smile.

Then, at the airport, we got a brand new mini van instead of our planned mini-economy. It was a good thing too because we ended up using every available bit of space in the trunk with our suitcases, stroller, duffel bag, and a carry on bag for every person. Gone are the days when we traveled with just one carry-on one suitcase for the two of us. And then we got a sim card and called the apartment owner Coco and agreed to meet at the apartment. And then, in perfect spirits, we drove to Antwerp. And that’s when all the fun started.

The building on Italiëlei 155 looked pretty old. The street itself looked like a tree lined valley on the Google earth but turned out to be a major city thoroughfare with 8 lines of traffic going through. We still hoped that we would get something nice with all the high ceilinged windows facing the front.

When the Flemish-looking Coco showed up, Georgia and I walked with her inside through the narrow hallway with stairs. The apartment front looked as on the pictures – high wooden ceiling, pleasant leather sofas. The terrace was actually pretty private yard with grapes and roses, walled with the surrounding buildings kind of how it is in some Greenwich village apartments. The kitchen was just a kind of a counter with an old fridge and tiny microwave but it was not the type of place one spent most of their time anyway.

Then I asked about the bedrooms. Coco directed us toward the winding metal staircase. Three of the bedrooms were in the basement. Not the nice, put your pool table down and entertain your guests type of basement, but the real thing: cold, damp, and having the smell that brought to mind the multiple sewage spills. The basement was sectioned into several rooms with tiny windows, and two single metal beds in each room. The bathroom had no door. For the child-friendliness part Coco also provided the antique 3-walled crib and the baby chair from the dawn of the furniture construction for children.

It kind of dawned that it would be pretty tough to live in this 5* luxury as implied by her listing (http://www.antwerpflats.be/fotosfft0a.htm). I hope that others would not be fooled like us. Read the small print: kids friendly (Yes) actually means the metal staircase and a few other things to provide ample training and hardening to your small kids. In case you decide to forego the hardening, there is a staircase outside in the backyard that also goes downstairs to the basement. And since when does “linens” include the bathroom towels and the toilet paper.

I communicated my feedback to Coco. Coco said that other Americans (one older couple) had stayed in the apartment and were rather appreciative of the dampness and coolness. And her kids grew up in the similar conditions. And why aren’t I saying thanks for the crib.

Dan saw the apartment next and agreed with me. Given that we, or me, pretty stupidly, did not consider any other options prior to coming here, I went back to her and tried to get a heater for the downstairs and the crib that did not come from the dumpster of the museum for the child abuse. She said “absolutely no” to heater and offered a play box for Isabella. Having offered to make this concession she said that she is not happy with my attitude and complaining, and feels it is in her best interest to give me back my deposit so I could get out. After a short discussion it did come to that. She initially said that she does not have the money on her but I pointed her to the bank that was just downstairs and surprisingly she did give back our 500 euros.

We were actually very relieved. We drove to the city center, and walked around and eventually settled down on the beautiful stadthouse square for lunch. While we were waiting for our food, I walked over with the kids to the Tourist Information office to ask for the names of other apartment agents. The sight of disheveled woman holding a somewhat stained infant, and an older kid plentifully producing the snot, did not initially warm up the information clerk. But after I explained our sorry state, he got nicer and suggested to stay at the brand new cheap hotel Etap near the main train station while we sort things out. He provided the hotel info and offered to check the next-door government office for the ideas on how to approach the apartment hunting.

We finished our French fries and beer and walked around some more. Antwerp has one of the prettiest old towns. There are plenty of the colorful winding narrow lanes and awesome old buildings. The church of the lady of the town is huge and awesome. The city is beautiful not in a “preserved” and sterilized sort of way but does show the signs of continued life; such the Arab hosts inviting “bellas bambinas” to the Italian eatery. Incidentally, the number of food choices is pretty amazing. It makes sense considering how well integrated the city is. You have to hunt for the original Flemish and they usually would turn out to be from Holland anyway.

Our only worry was that we would miss Irina who was coming later that day from Vilnius to help us take care of kids. But, surprising us again, Coco gave our number to her and she was able to get in touch with us. We checked into the hotel and continued our exploration of the city. On the way, as a crazy backup plan, we called our wonderful Vilnius agent Audrene from McDonalds free hotspot and she promised to check into getting an apartment for us.